Escape to Everest by microlight

Nepal was a country I had wanted to visit for many years, a land of mystery, stunning scenery and of course the home of the Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world.
I finally decided to go in November 2008. This is a great time to visit as the monsoon season has just passed, the air is at clearest and therefore the best time for viewing the mountains.

As part of our tour we visited the beautiful lakeside town of Pokhara. Overlooking the town is one of Nepal’s most famous mountains, “Macchapucchre”, or the “Fishtail” Mountain. This 6993m high mountain is sacred and climbing it is strictly forbidden.

I am very interested in photography and wanted to photograph the Himalayas from the air. There is a company which offers microlight flights from the airport in Pokhara.

The great thing about this flight is that you are allowed to take your own camera. You sit in an open air cockpit and therefore don’t have to worry about poor quality glass or reflections when you take a photo. The aircraft also has a wing mounted camera fitted. This takes photos of you sitting in the aircraft with the scenery in the background. A CD can be purchased of your flight when you land (definitely worth buying).

The best flight is the one hour “Mountain Sky Trek” as this is the one that takes you up close and personal with the mountains.

Following a flight briefing from my pilot Igor, I put on my flying suit and helmet and “boarded” the Russian built aircraft. Following a short taxi and take off run we climbed into the air and did a short sightseeing tour over Pokhara.
Next stop was the mountains and as we got nearer and nearer the views became more and more detailed and incredible. Snow covered mountains with stunning peaks, deep valleys, blue skies and a few white clouds below you were a sight I will never forget. Added to this the feeling of the cold mountain air in your face made this a unique and unforgettable experience.
As we flew close to “Macchapucchre” I could clearly see the famous “fishtail” peak. It was incredibly beautiful against the blue sky and I felt honoured to be there..
Following a short prayer to the Sacred Mountain we turned away steeply and continued on our mountain sky trek.
On our way back to Pokhara we flew over the Peace Pagoda situated high on a hill overlooking the lake and town. From there it was just a few minutes back to the airport and unfortunately the end of my flight.

Was it worth doing??

I can honestly say that this flight was the highlight of my holiday and is a “MUST DO”. In my opinion it’s better than the Everest flight.
Why? Because you get much closer to the mountains and are also in an open air environment which adds to the experience. It’s impossible to describe the beauty of the mountains. Photographs give you an idea of what to expect but trust me you have to see it for yourself!!

Just a few tips;

Book well in advance as availability is limited.
Spend a few days in Pokhara and book your flight for the first day you are there (just in case the flight is cancelled due to weather). You then have the opportunity to arrange your flight for another day.
Flights only operate in the early morning and late afternoon. Mornings tend to be best as the skies are usually clearer. If possible go on the first flight.
There are two types of aircraft. One you sit behind the pilot and on the other you sit beside the pilot. Request that you fly on the one where you sit behind the pilot as this allows you to photograph out of both sides of the aircraft.
Don’t forget your camera!!

John MacArthur

Located on a beautiful sandy beach in North Kerala are 16 traditional, thatched cottages.  Each one has a verandah with either a sea or garden view.  The rooms are spacious and comfortable, each with a novel “garden bathroom”, partially open-air but totally private! Intricate woodwork, carved by local artisans, is a feature throughout the hotel with teak floors and ornate wooden pillars.

The hotel aims to soothe and nurture body, mind and spirit. The Priya Ayurvedic Spa offers  Ayurvedic and Western spa treatments with a resident Ayurvedic doctor to offer personal consultations and treatment. Yoga and meditation lessons settle the mind, Samadhi.

Neeleshwar Hermitage prides itself on creating an eco-friendly environment, practising recycling, water conservation and a “minimal plastic” policy.  The Spa uses only organic products sourced and produced within Kerala.

Delicious meals can be eaten in the beachside restaurant, by candle light with only the sound of the lapping waves or the local musicians and dancers to break the silence.

Guests can swim in the stunning infinity pool with its ocean view or take a backwater cruise in the houseboat. They can walk barefoot on the beach or cycle to a local village to see the temples, perhaps even enjoy a local festival full of vibrant colours and spectacle.

The cooks offer lessons and the resident Cultural Director lectures on Indian art and culture. Every sense is catered for at Neeleshwar Hermitage.  It is even possible to get married at this romantic haven overlooking the Arabian Sea……..

We are delighted to offer a special 7 nights for the price of 3 offer, room only, running from now until the end of September 2010.

The hotel has achieved many accolades since opening:

Voted one of the 4 best Ayurvedic retreats in Kerala SUNDAY TELEGRAPH July 2009

Featured in NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC “Go Green” April 2009

Voted one of the top 10 Eco Hotels VOGUE March 2009

Voted Hotel of the Month FOOD and TRAVEL GUIDE May 2008

Featured in CONDE NAST TRAVELLER’S “Hot List” (US Edition) May 2008

Voted one of the best 101 Hotels of the World TATLER TRAVEL GUIDE March 2008

Many people have already heard of Assam in connection with the wonderful tea that comes from this state in North-East India – and it truly is the land of the tea gardens with nearly 750 plantations . It is also one of the wettest parts of India with rain fall the highest from June to September. With all that rain and a cooler climate, it is little wonder that the state is described as the Scotland of India although it is almost the size of Ireland.

India is a Land of Diverse Cultures

If India is the land of diverse cultures, then Assam takes things to a new level. Having borders with Bhutan and China, over the centuries many different races have mixed and settles here. Austro-Asiatic, Negritos, Dravidians, Indo-Mongoloids, Tibeto-Burmese and Aryans all contributed to the community known as the Assamese.

Arriving in Assam

I had just finished travelling around Cu Chi in Vietnam when I arrived in Assam via Delhi. I flew into the largest city, Guwahati and noticed that there was far less bustle that the bigger Indian cities. Guwahati has a rich history going back almost 2,000 years and now has a population of nearly one million. There are a number of bustling markets where you can see the designs and colours of the ethnic dress called “Mekhela-Chadar” and enjoy delightful food that has a wealth of flavour but is not too spicy.

Kaziranga National Park

It was soon obvious to me that Assam is a place of incredible biodiversity and is in fact home to several National Parks. The most impressive is Kaziranga National Park a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is the largest habitat for the famous Indian one horn rhinoceros. I cannot recommend visiting this place highly enough – you might even catch a glimpse of a tiger. You can get about the park by jeep or elephant if you are watching your carbon footprint.

Seeing the Brahmaputra

Assam is still far enough off the beaten track for the hardcore adventurer but with enough facilities for the traveller who enjoys their comfort. It is a wonderful place which has something for everyone. I have many happy memories – seeing the mighty Brahmaputra river at sunset, hitching a ride on a logging elephant and sitting outside at night in moonlight so bright I could write my travel journal and read the paper.

I am looking forward to returning to Assam soon and top of my list is a visit to the mysterious Navagraha Temple ( Temple of the nine planets ) among other things.

BHASKAR BARUAH September 2009

I visited Jaipur in April for a travel show and decided to extend the trip to include Varanasi and Amritsar because I have some guests who are interested in visiting these cities for trips next year.

I visited Varanasi about 4 years ago and, as a single woman, found it a little intimidating.  It is an Indian city like no other.  It bombards the senses from every direction.  Visually it is a photographer’s nirvana.  Light plays such an important role in capturing the essence of a person or place.  Sunrise aboard a boat, drifting on the Ganges has to be one of the most serene ways to take a photograph.

The sun’s rays spread across the river illuminating the honey coloured buildings above the ghats, the stone steps which rise from the Ganges.

Now I understand why devout Hindus call it Kashi, “the City of Light.”  Temples, shrines and ashrams line the river for 3 miles with around 70 ghats stretching down to the water.

Hindus believe that bathing in the Ganges will cleanse the body of sin and purify body and soul.  To die in Varanasi will help a person achieve moksha, release from the cycle of rebirth.  So, every day thousands arrive at the ghats, quietly saying prayers and performing their morning puja.

Worshippers take up the holy water in cupped hands and recite chants learned from their Mothers.  (I have been told the occasional Bollywood song can also be heard, but I prefer to imagine the more traditional version.)  Then they pour it back into the river, as an offering to ancestors and Gods.  They present to the river, as they do to a deity, offerings of flowers and small clay oil lamps.

All around the city are streets with flower sellers whose stalls overflow with garlands of rich orange marigolds, roses of deep pink and delicate fragrant jasmine.

As the oarsman steered us gently downriver the silence was broken by the dhobi wallahs slapping wet clothes against the rocks to get them clean.  As we moved on to the next ghat a yoga teacher was instructing his pupils on new positions via microphone.  The unofficial “main” ghat at Dashashvamedh is a riot of colour with beautiful saris, the ladies standing, eyes closed, with hands in prayer.  Later in the evening I would return here to savour the atmosphere in the evening Ganga Aarti (Evening prayers.)

Perhaps the most moving of all is Manikarnika Ghat where wisps of blue smoke drift above the main burning ghat.  Instead of being upset I found it a deeply moving place.  Women are excluded from the funeral groups and the men dressed in white, quietly wait for the cremation ceremony. Photography is naturally strictly prohibited but there is no problem about watching life, or death, in the raw.  It is quiet and dignified, a place of serenity in a city that throbs with life.

A walk through the confusing maze of alleys is best taken with a guide.  Mine was very good and seemed to know everyone.  He could also tell me who permitted a photograph, and who was shy.  A handful of rupees usually brought a smile, or at least a pose, from a few characters…and Varanasi is brim full of characters.

Since Varanasi is a very holy and traditional Hindu city many of its temples and mosques are closed to non followers of that faith like the Alamgir Mosque and the Chausath Yogini Temple.  The city’s very own golden temple, the Kashi  Vishvanath Temple , so named because of the gold plate on its spire, is also closed to non Hindus.

One or two days are needed in the city, to at least get over the culture shock!  The city oozes cultural experiences with its rich heritage in art, dance and frequent music festivals.

The Ganga Aarti should not be missed.  Four years ago, when I first observed it  from a boat, I found the whole experience quite spine tingling.  In subsequent years I have been fortunate enough to enjoy the aarti at Haridwar, Rishikesh and Pushkar and realise, like Gods in the Hindu faith, no two are the same.  I wondered if returning to a place which had so moved me in the past would be a wise decision.  However in India it does not matter if you visit the same place year after year, or even day after day, there will always be something to amuse, amaze or surprise you.

This time we were given front row seats just behind the young priests.  It was a fantastically close view of proceedings and soon I was swept up in the whole spectacle.  The crowd behind me were singing Vedic hymns and praying along with the priests.  There were bells ringing and smoke from the priests’ lamps went swirling into the night sky.

At the end of the ceremony pilgrims lit the small earthenware oil lamps called diyas, or candles sitting on leaves decorated with flowers, and after saying a few words of prayer gently lowered them on to the Ganges.  As they released them and they floated downstream they looked like hundreds of fireflies lighting up the night sky.

By the time it was all finished I was ready for a fresh pomegranate juice and head home.

However my evening’s entertainment was not finished as my car had to pull in to the side of the street to let a wedding party pass.  April is the wedding season and there were firecrackers and a band, dancing and singing.  Guests were even carrying lamps on their heads.  It was impossible not to get caught up in all the fun and happiness, their exuberance was quite infectious!

On my last morning it happened again.  I was in my room and heard the cacophony of sound that heralds a wedding band.  I grabbed my camera and hurried outside.  The revellers had already passed laughing and joking and as I looked down the young couple were following.

He was striding in front wearing a scarf around his neck called a Pichuari.  Tied to the end of this was another scarf, worn by his new bride who walked behind under an umbrella to shade her from the intense heat.  Alongside her walked her mother- in- law with a protective arm on her new daughter’s shoulder. Being the guardian of the family she was taking the   newly- weds to a temple in the city for a blessing.  As I looked down on this intimate scene I thought about this young girl who had now left the security of her parents’ home to start a new life with her husband and his family.  It brought back memories of my last trip from Varanasi.  As I lay in my bunk in the train I could hear a strange noise and slowly realised it was the muffled crying from the next berth where a new bride sat, embarking on her journey to her new home.  It brought a lump to my throat too.

Fortunately the overnight train to Delhi was not so emotional and it was great just to lie back and enjoy the ever changing scene outside.  Next day, I boarded the modern express train to Amritsar, arriving late in the evening.

Amritsar, although not a terribly pretty city, brims with colour and interesting faces. It has a few places of interest which a full day would cover.  My focus was the Golden Temple and my first glimpse of it was mid morning.  I had remembered to bring a scarf to cover my head, deposited my shoes and washed my hands and feet.  As I approached the top of the stairs I caught my first glance of the Temple.  I think it is as breathtaking as the Taj Mahal as it floats upon the water.  Its golden dome dazzled in the sunshine.  The overwhelming feeling is of peace and spirituality, for me quite different to the Taj.  This is a “living” monument.  Whilst the Taj was built out of love it is, after all, a mausoleum.

I joined the pilgrims wandering round the complex in a clockwise direction on the Parikrama, a white marble pathway which burns feet in April.   Once the circuit is complete, I had to wait with the crowd to cross the causeway into the inner sanctum of the temple.

The temple which houses the Holy Book, the Guru Granth Sahib, is the Hari Mandir, the holiest site for Sikhs.  Throughout the day text is recited from it and musicians play softly and this is relayed outside by loudspeaker.  It is possible to sit inside and just watch proceedings and no one will disturb you as long as you take no photographs.  It is exquisitely decorated inside with beautiful pietra dura.

I decided to return later for the evening prayers when the Holy Book is taken to its resting place at night.
Next stop was Jallianwala Bagh, the site of one of the worst atrocities during British rule.  In 1919, around 20 000 people had gathered in this garden surrounded by tall residential buildings to protest about the arrest of some nationalist leaders.  General Dyer ordered his troops to open fire on the crowd, killing hundreds.  It was quite easy to imagine how claustrophobic it must have felt and the panic it created.  I did feel a sense of guilt about being British that afternoon and somehow it made history seem more poignant.

My mood was lifted by a trip to see the border ceremony at Wagah.  I made the mistake of taking possibly the oldest, dirtiest and most definitely slowest auto rickshaw in the world.  I was convinced it would take 24 hours to drive 6 mile.  It did however offer opportunities to see the fertile countryside outside Amritsar at virtually walking pace and later, at no pace, when we had to stop in the impending dark to change a tyre after we had a puncture.

The ceremony itself was hilarious and rather camp!  A commentator marched around whipping up patriotic fervour and it was possible to see the Pakistani crowd on the other side of the gate.  Bollywood tunes blared out and young men waved flags enthusiastically.

A note for ladies is that bags are not allowed, so to avoid anxiety leave them at the hotel.  There is a short walk to the seated area but the road is well maintained and flat.  Arrive early to grab the best seats.

I think the highlight of the entire visit to Amritsar was the return to the Golden Temple at dusk.  It had been very hot and it was refreshing to sit in the shade around the pool and relax with all the families.  Feeling rather hungry my companion and I ventured into the Guru ka Langar, the free kitchen where volunteers serve simple meals to everyone.  The food was delicious but it was a strain to sit cross legged on the floor, eating with my fingers without spilling everything into my lap!

I was definitely the focus of attention but people smiled shyly and it was definitely a memorable night.

Once you finish you hand utensils to one group and the tin tray to another who then throws it man to man down the line until they are all gathered in one big bucket to be taken to lots of people standing washing at huge sinks.  The clattering of trays and buzz of chat made me definitely want to roll my sleeves up and muck in.

At around 10pm there was a flurry of activity as volunteers, male only, were called to participate in the Palaki Sahib.  The Holy Book is carried back into the building  called Aktal Tahkt for the night.

Reluctantly, it was time to go, just one last look at the Golden Temple sitting on an inky black pool under a clear starry  sky and crescent moon.

Years ago I had turned at the gates of the Taj Mahal and vowed to return.

I made the same promise tonight.  The Golden Temple is definitely worth revisiting.

Having become infatuated with India from our first visit, my wife and I found Rajasthan one of the most memorable places.

We liked the scenic Aravalli hills and the beauty of the cities, particularly Jaipur and it’s surrounding sights. We have returned to Jaipur 3 times and visited the Amber Fort on each occasion, a magnificent piece of the region’s history and Mughal influenced architecture, with views over the hills and valleys forming a great backdrop for photographs.

On our first visit we noticed a local musician seated on the steps up to the palace entrance. He was an old man dressed in the Rajasthan multicoloured turban, playing a teeth grating stringed instrument. He had a face sculptured by the dry sunny climate over many years and a pair of spectacles that sat precariously above his permanent smile. On being presented with this photo opportunity I asked him if I could take his photo and he nodded and kept on playing, I left a few rupees at his feet and continued our guided tour.

The following year we returned to Jaipur before going on to ‘new’ cities in Rajasthan, we went up to the fort again and there was the old man sitting in the same spot, playing what sounded like the same “tune”. I took another photograph or two and paid my dues.

Last year, again passing through Jaipur we were taking my brother-in-law on his first visit to India and of course Rajasthan. My wife had suggested that maybe I should take a copy of my best photo of the old man with me to give him as a surprise. When our guide took us into the main courtyard he could see that I was looking around trying to find something and he asked if he could help. I showed him the photograph and explained I wanted to give the old man a copy. He recognised the old man and said he would go and ask some of the other locals that frequented the fort for their business.

When he came back he said that he was sorry to say that the old man had died. He could see the disappointment on our faces, but he said he had a surprise for us. A minute later a young man approached wearing the same clothes and distinctive turban as the old man and he was carrying the same musical instrument. He was not wearing spectacles but he also had a grand beard and moustache, favoured by the men of Rajasthan.

The guide introduced him as the old man’s son. I gave him the photograph and asked the guide to explain our previous visits and our original intention of giving it to his father. The young man started to cry and came over to give me a huge hug. When he finally let me go he said through our guide that this would be the families’ only photograph of his father.

Quite an emotional thing to happen on holiday, it gave us an even better reason for loving Rajasthan.

JOHN AND PAM JOLLY March 2009

When we were planning our honeymoon in India, we were keen to include horse riding in our itinerary.  Our honeymoon in India involved a week in Kerala, followed by two weeks traveling through Rajasthan.  We had read about various riding safaris in India so asked Lynn to find us somewhere to have a riding adventure, and she did not disappoint. 

We had been on a riding holiday in Argentina a year or so before our wedding and really enjoyed it.  Kate is an experienced rider and I am pretty much a beginner.  Living in London we don’t get to ride much at home so we like to fit a few days riding into our holidays.

Rohet Garh is a fortified Rajput palace and now heritage hotel in Rohet, around 45 minutes drive outside of Jodhpur.

The hotel itself is beautiful and relaxing.  The rooms are set out around a lovely grassed area which attracts peacocks as regular visitors.  The atmosphere is very relaxing, making the hotel a great place to while away a few hours.

The family that own and live in the hotel are very friendly and keen to talk about India, Rajasthan and Rohet, and in particularly Madonna and Guy Richie’s recent stay at the hotel !

Activities at Rohet include camel riding, guided tours around the local villages, a tented wilderness camp and of course horse riding.

We were in Rohet for four days and rode every day.

The horses are mainly Marwari horses, which are native to the Western Rajasthan area.  The hotel has horses that are suitable for all levels of experience, from a marvelous, if excitable, stallion to calm relaxed horses for beginner riders.  Kate rode a beautiful Marwari horse suitable for an experienced rider and I rode a calm grey, which was excellent for a novice rider (and which became fondly known as Dessie !).  We rode the same horses for the four days we were there.  Before we left Rohet, we also meet a family with children who were also there for the riding.

We had booked a horse safari involving a ride from the hotel to the Rohet wilderness camp, taking in a tour of two local villages.  We knew that this meant many hours in the saddle so were keen to have a shorter ride first and arranged an evening ride on the day we arrived.  We hadn’t arranged this in advance but everyone at Rohet was keen to assist and they were happy for us to arrange to ride on arrival and at short notice.

We rode for around two hours at sunset. We left Rohet and headed out into the Rajasthan desert, with a guide and one other rider.  The terrain was beautiful, as was the sunset.  The ride was a perfect warm up for the days ahead.

The second morning we left Rohet at around 10am, heading for the wilderness camp. 

The morning ride was through desert terrain.  We saw a number of gazelle and antelope, including the rare and protected black buck antelope, which is found mainly in India.  We also had the special experience of seeing a newborn camel being cared for by its mother.  A safari in every sense of the word.

We rode for around two and a half hours to a local village, where we had lunch by the village lake in a magnificent tented, regal oasis.  The food was driven out from the hotel and, like all of the food at Rohet Garh, was excellent.

Either side of lunch we were treated to guided tours round local villages.

The first village was a typical Rajasthani village where the locals still live by the barter system.  We were shown around the village houses and businesses and were treated to an opium ceremony with the village elders. 

Next was a tour around a Bishnoi village around 30 minutes ride away from where we had lunch.  The Bishnois have existed as a community for over 500 years.  They have a very close relationship with the local animals, which they care for.  Their lives do not seem to have changed for centuries; they live in huts made out of natural materials and are vegetarian. 

From the Bishnoi village we rode for another few hours to the wilderness camp.  During the ride we rode past a lake outside of a village where we saw more peacocks than most people see in a lifetime – a truly amazing site.

The camp was a beautiful tented village with around 6 tents, available to guests of the hotel only.  The tents were not like anything we had experience before – more Lawrence of Arabia than Glastonbury, with a large double bed and a hot shower in each.  Drinks and dinner were served in an open sided tent, surrounded by the noise of the desert.

In the morning we arranged with the guide to ride the horses back to the hotel rather than go back by jeep.  We left at first light and rode as the sun came up.  Just over 3 hours straight in the saddle was a great way to start the day and breakfast that morning when we arrived back at Rohet was very much needed, as was a relaxing morning in the sun by the pool !  

On our final day we rode again for a couple of hours at sunset, riding out from the hotel into the dessert before saying goodbye to the horses who had shared our Rohet Garh experience with us.

Riding in India was everything we had hoped it would be.  Beautiful horses, beautiful scenery and great wildlife.  We had a fantastic four days a Rohet Garh and would certainly go back. 

Thank you to the team at Rohet and to Lynn – perfect.

RICHARD and KATE ELLIOTT March 2009

We started our honeymoon the day after our wedding with a 9.30 pm flight to India.  With hindsight we might have had another day at home to recover from the most amazing day of our lives.  Luckily all went to plan and when we arrived in Mumbai amongst the chaos we were met with were our guide and driver who whisked us away for a leisurely lunch of, you guessed it, curry before our flight on to Cochin.  

Kerala was the perfect way to start our honeymoon – beautiful beaches, amazing food, Ayurveda massage (but be warned they are full on and definitely not for the feint hearted), long lie ins, hammocks and even an upgrade to our own bungalow with private pool where Paul McCartney and Heather Mills had once stayed (but more about famous divorced couples later).

We spent the first couple of days on the beach by the Arabian Sea, followed by 2 nights on the Kerala backwaters then 2 nights in Cochin itself.

We stayed with the CGH Earth group of hotels in Kerala.  The Marari Beach was beautifully peaceful – lying in a hammock by the sea is a great way to unwind after the wedding.

The Kerala backwaters are one of the most relaxing places on earth.  We were told by the skipper on our boat that all we had to do for the next 24 hours was relax !  Waking up on Christmas morning in the middle of a lake on the backwaters was something we won’t forget, especially when we then checked into the Coconut Lagoon hotel and were taken to our honeymoon suite – with our own private pool and view over the backwaters, oh and a note on the wall signed by Paul McCartney and Heather Mills, who had stayed there previously.  Possibly not the best omen….

Cochin is said to be India’s most cosmopolitan city, which has been controlled at various times by the Chinese, the Portuguese, the Dutch, the English and of course the Indians and it also has at one time had a significant Jewish community.  The old city is beautiful and combines history from all of its previous inhabitants.  The Chinese fishing nets at sunset are a must – don’t forget the camera.

Our hotel in Cochin was the Brunton Boatyard (part of the CGH Earth Group).  The hotel has a very colonial feel with views over the busy waterways in and out of the port of Cochin.  Possibly one of the best hotels we have ever stayed in. Swimming in the pool alongside one of the busiest harbours in India while watching the dredgers continually clearing the channel was bizarre but strangely fascinating.

After a week in Kerala we moved on to Delhi and the Golden Triangle that we had heard so much about. 

Again, the flights and transfers were seamless.   In Delhi we met Raj, the driver of our traditional ambassador car and who would spend the next 10 days with.  Raj spoke good English, drove safely (not easy on the Indian roads) and was a great guide.  But a word of warning the roads in India are crazy – camels, cows, elephants, tuk tuks, children, people, chaos and fog.  However, with Raj and his trusty motto “to drive in India you need good eyes, good brakes and good luck” we were fine!  But that’s not to say there were not a few eye watering moments none of which were Raj’s fault but with his skill he navigated us safely from A to B.

After a brief stay in Delhi (which we were pleased about because it was the only place we didn’t love in India), we moved on to Agra and the Taj Mahal.  Despite having seen hundreds of photos, the Taj Mahal was more beautiful than we could ever have imagined and its majesty is impossible to capture in this article so you will just have to take our word for it and visit yourselves, you will not be disappointed.

The Taj itself combined with a night at the Oberoi Amaravilas (which was eye wateringly expensive but worth every penny given the view from our room of the Taj Mahal) was one of the most romantic nights in the whole trip.  Agra was somewhere we will never forget not least because we nearly got talked into buying a ridiculous table made from the same marble as the Taj Mahal and with the same inlay (just what you need for your small but functional two bed flat in London!).  The Oberoi Amarvilas is a must for every honeymoon.

After Agra it was on to Jaipur and the Amber Fort and New Year celebrations.  We got up early the next day to get to the Amber Fort in order to guarantee an elephant ride up to the fort (the elephants are now only allowed to do approximately 6 rides of about 10 minutes per day up to the fort which is good news for the elephants).  In fact we were amazed at the steps that were being taken to be sympathetic towards the elephants with a planned new home and water park beside the Fort being built and with the site preservation of Fort itself.  The Fort was one of the most amazing sites in Jaipur not detracted by the fact our small but speedy elephant powered up the whole way overtaking all the other elephants in her path. 

In Jaipur we stayed at the Samode Haveli – a Heritage hotel still partially inhabited by the family who once called it home.  Being there over New Year meant a few unexpected events – a party at the hotel for all of the guests, a kite festival in the town (for those that have read or seen kite runner you will know just how amazing that was), thousands of kites in the sky and monkeys on our balcony and the odd stray kite that we spent hours throwing down to the children next door – a great way to spend our first New Year’s Eve together. 

After Jaipur we visited the amazing Chatra Sagar.  Chatra Sagar is a handful of luxury tents on the top of a dam (which was built by the grandfather of the family that now run it) on the plains about an hour outside Jodhpur.  It really is paradise, with amazing views and wildlife, great food and a great atmosphere.  Make sure you ask for one of the two honeymoon tents, on a hilltop set apart from the other tents and very secluded, with west facing views for an unsurpassable sunset. The only problem we had with this place is that we only booked for one night and not two!!!  It was the most peaceful place in the world.  We strolled down the hill for dinner, which is what the amazing cooks have made that day from the fresh produce from the surrounding farms.  As we headed back to our tents torch in hand we were met with a candlelit climb to the top of the hill and a vista of stars that you would struggle to beat anywhere in the world.

The next morning we woke and again strolled back down the hill to breakfast – yoghurt, pomegranate seeds and cornflakes (trust us a memorable food moment) with further delights to follow.  We were then whisked off for a jeep tour of the village surrounding Chatra Sagar and a trip to the local school.  The family that run Chatra Sagar really put back in to the local village, they sponsor the school, employ all staff locally, buy all the produce used from the village farms and much more.  This is why on the village tour you are met with warmth and smiles and not one person expects anything because the rules are you do not give anything away because the local people do not want the children to learn to live off holidaymakers.  It was an amazing and sensitive insight into life in an Indian rural community. 

Next stop was the wonderful city of Jodhpur.  In Jodhpur we stayed at the Ajit Bhawan Hotel.  The Ajit Bhawan is a heritage hotel but the room we stayed in was in the newly developed part of the hotel and had a modern feel to it.  Beware of the swimming pool if you are there in December/January – it is not as warm as you might think it is going to be.

After another early start we visited the amazing Mehrangarh fort.  The fort is built on a rocky cliff overlooking the city.   The view from the fort over Jodhpur is amazing and shows the city in its full colour.  In Jodhpur we also visited the local market, an amazing but also frightening experience, with people and traffic everywhere.

Rajasthan and Jodhpur in particular are famous for the export of scarves, shawls and pashminas.  We asked our guide to take us to a local shop, which turned out to be an exporter.  We sat downstairs while the owner and his assistants showed us his extensive stock, which we were reliably informed he exported to many Western fashion retailers.  It was well worth a visit and a great place to buy gifts and souvenirs of our time in Rajasthan. 

After Jodhpur we spent four days at Rohet Garh, a fortified Rajput palace and heritage hotel around 45 minutes drive from Jodhpur. 

We were keen to include some horse riding in our itinerary and Rohet has an extensive riding programme.  We spent four days riding their Marwari horses, a breed of horse native to Western Rajasthan.  We rode to the Rohet wilderness camp stopping along the way for a tour of a local village and also a visit to a Bishnoi.  The Bishnois have a very close relationship with the local animals, which they care for and visiting their community, which has not changed in centuries, was fascinating.  The owner of Rohet, our guide for the day, was keen to tell us over lunch all about Madonna’s visit to Rohet the previous year and the riding they did. 

The family that own Rohet are fantastic and love to meet their guests and make sure that everyone has a great time.  The hotel is very relaxing and a great place to spend a few relaxing days after the previous weeks sightseeing.

Our final destination in Rajasthan was Udaipur.  Udaipur is an amazing city, built around five main manmade lakes.  A beautiful city and a great place to spend the last days of our honeymoon.   It was the smallest of the Rajasthan cities that we visited and undoubtedly the most romantic.  The city somehow has a less hectic feel to it and is a great place to walk around and get a real taste of life in India.

We spent our last evening having dinner at the Lake Palace Hotel.  The Lake Palace is an amazing hotel in the middle of Lake Pichola, the largest lake in Udaipur. The hotel has retained all of trappings of Maharaja

opulence and was a truly romantic place to spend the last evening of our honeymoon. 

Lynn organised a dream honeymoon for us.   With all the build up to the wedding we had no time to think about the honeymoon, which is why we are so grateful to Lynn.  Lynn organised every detail of our honeymoon from airport transfers, to hotels, to recommendations of where to visit, what to see and what to eat!  From the moment we arrived in Mumbai to the moment we flew home, everything worked brilliantly and was completely seamless.  The hotels in India are amongst the best in the world and certainly the best we have ever stayed in.  Every hotel made our stay special because we were on our honeymoon leaving us small presents in or room and even being showered with petals on our arrival.    India is a vibrant and beautiful county with a warm, kind and generous people.

India was an amazing place to spend our honeymoon.  A great combination of relaxation, adventures, sightseeing and romance.

RICHARD and KATE ELLIOTT March 2009

The late night flight arrived on time at the new improved Delhi airport and what a change in the place. Queues are quicker and the arrival hall is more spacious and less claustrophobic than in the past. The game of “spot your name on the board” still remains as you search a sea of eager faces lined up on each side as you emerge from baggage reclaim.

Even at midnight there is still a buzz about Delhi but at least the traffic is not so congested and it wasn’t long before I was snuggling down in what must be one of the most comfortable beds in Delhi at Claridges.

An early morning tour of Delhi showed us some of the major sites. It allowed me to revisit the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Ladies are now required to wear hideous spotty long shirts which did make for some interesting photographs. I climbed to the top of one of the minarets (single ladies cannot climb unaccompanied) and was rewarded by splendid views of the old city.

After lunch we fly to Nagpur in central India and then transfer to cars which take us to the luxury of Singinawa Jungle Lodge. Morning and evening safaris are taken in the lodge’s 4×4 jeeps each with a trained naturalist. From experience, it is absolutely essential to have a knowledgeable guide accompanying you. It can transform what may seem a boring “tiger free” drive into a voyage of discovery about trees or herbivores or butterflies. To be focussed purely on the elusive stripey cat means guests will not enjoy the full jungle experience. After all, my typical tiger caveat, a tiger will be seen ONLY if he chooses to be seen!

Luckily this year has had fantastic sightings in both Kanha and Bandhavgarh and in the latter park there are several families with cubs of different ages making the tiger population very healthy indeed.

Kanha is a much bigger park with rolling meadows of open grasslands. There are herds of deer, including the highly endangered Barasingha (swamp deer) and Gaur (Indian bison), only seen in this park on this trip.

It is always a thrill to see your first tiger of the trip from the back of an elephant. It allows guests to get up and close and a bit personal with a snoozing tiger and as long as we don’t go too close both animals are happy and the only disturbance is the constant clicking of cameras.

The journey between parks is long but gives an interesting view of rural India, and allows guests the chance to sit back and watch a constantly changing scene. India is always full of surprises. I was looking out of the window as we passed a vacant piece of land. In the distance I could see goal posts. As we got closer I couldn’t believe my eyes. An old man was dangling upside down, his knees wrapped around the cross bar and he appeared to be in a meditative yoga pose. Of course by the time I reached for my camera, took off the lens cover, switched it on and then resumed my position at the window I had missed him. I did think of shouting “rukiye!” which I think means stop…but it was one that got away! India never fails to surprise.

Bandhavgarh this year gave me one of those moments where a lump comes to your throat with sheer happiness and you know in that second, that life can’t get any better. I am a frustrated zoologist at heart and I will never, ever tire of seeing tigers. On our last day we were driving slowly along, having had a quiet day when one of the ladies in the jeep just happened to turn around and shout “tiger!” There, reclining in the shade, was a magnificent female tiger. Once you saw her it was hard to believe we could have driven straight passed her…how many times had we done that on this trip you wonder!

We sat with her for about an hour. She only moved once to get into some early evening sun and by that time another couple of jeeps had arrived. But we were in prime position and I had NO intention of surrendering that.

It was amazing, once the flurry of photographs died down, you could just sit and observe her. Licking her paws, stretching like all cats do, flicking her ears as the occasional fly buzzed her. Then she would nonchalantly gaze in our direction and for a brief second you actually looked into the eyes of a real live wild Bengal tiger and you could literally feel your heart miss a beat. Never will I experience that connection again. A treasured memory indeed.

The overnight train to Agra was typically fun, mixing with lots of new Indian friends and answering the same questions about name, place of birth, age and marital status. Travelling by train is an experience not to be missed, just go with the flow!

We chilled at the hotel in Agra and in the afternoon visited Agra Fort. Then the highlight of the trip, a visit to the Taj Mahal. I always catch my breath when I first come through the gateway and get my first glimpse of the monument. The cloudless sky provides the perfect backdrop and the colourful saris comprise the classic photograph.

It is lovely to sit on the grass beside the Lotus Pool and people-watch as the sun dips in the sky and bathes the Taj in a pink glow. The crowds slowly drift away and peace descends on the tomb. It is a perfect way to finish off a memorable trip. What could be better, plenty of tigers and the romantic Taj Mahal.

March 2009

this features on the taj and tiger tour itinerary